Beginners Knitted Ribbed Beanie
This beanie is part of a beginner knitting set that I have designed. They are designed to be your first knitting projects after you start getting lessons or have done a tutorial or two from Youtube. Although I have included lots of descriptions and photos this is still intended to be used after you first learn the basic knit and purl stitches. When I first began to learn to knit I was often told to practice so I made many squares and rectangles which I ultimately threw away. Now 23 years later I am really sorry that I threw them away. So these patterns will help you turn your practice rectangles into something functional that you can look forward to wearing at the end!
This beanie fits both me and my husband. I have a 56cm head circumference and he has a 60cm head circumference so there is a lot of stretch.
**Please note that I will be selling this pattern along with a printer friendly version on my PayHip if you are interested.
Stitches you will need to know: Plain knit stitch and purl stitch
Glossary of Terms:
Slip Knot: a common knot that can be tightened or loosened by pulling on the tail or loose end
Tail: The loose end of the work, not the string coming from the ball
Working Thread: Yarn coming from the ball
Yarn Over: This is when you wind the yarn around the needle.
Plain Stitch: This is the basic knit stitch that you usually learn first.
Cast On: A method of creating stitches so that you have the right number to begin your project.
Bind Off: also called casting off. This is how you end your work so that you can remove the needle without the stitches dropping and unravelling.
You will need:
DK weight yarn
Optional: Stitch Markers
Cast on 100 stitches. (If you have a very big head or a very small head you can cast on more or fewer stitches but it must always be a multiple of 2 )
The cast on I use is called a Cable Cast On. It works as follows:
If you are a video sort of learner or if you’re having trouble with my instructions here I have a video here that you can watch
- Make a slip knot and place it on the needle. It doesn’t really matter how long your tail is but leave enough for weaving in at the end. I would recommend about 6 inches.
2. Insert your needle and yarn over like you are knitting plain stitch except instead of slipping the stitch off onto the right needle you place it back onto the left needle.
3. You should now have 2 loops on the left needle. This time instead of inserting your needle into the stitch you insert your needle in between the two stitches. Yarn over and place the loop back onto the left needle.
4. For every following stitch that you cast on you always put the needle in between the latest 2 stitches, that is the 2 stitches closest to the pointed end of your needle.
5.*Optional*: You can place a stitch marker every 10 stitches which will make it easier to count how many stitches you have.
Every Row: Knit two stitches and then purl two stitches stitched. Alternate this across the whole row. This is called 2×2 ribbing.
If you end a row with a purl you will begin the next row with a knit and visa versa.
The needles that I cast on with were 23cm long and I found them to be a bit short so I changed to 30cm long needles and these worked much better.
After a few rows, your work should start to look like this.
Knit until the work reaches 30cm tall. (Note: You can knit it even longer if you want it to be even more slouchy or you want to brim to fold deeper) Then bind off. Any bind off will work, the way that I do this is as follows:
- Knit 2 stitches.
- Pass the first stitch over the second stitch so that there is only one stitch on the right-hand needle.
- Knit one more stitch.
- Pass the first stitch over the second stitch.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there is only one stitch left. Cut the tail and pull the end through the loop.
This is how my work looked when I cast off. Don’t worry it will look really narrow but rib knitting is very stretchy.
Next you should match the two long ends together. This is NOT the cast on and bind off edges, rather it is the two sides which were created when you turned the row. The ribbing should run from top to bottom not side to side. With 2×2 ribbing there is not really a wrong side (back side) or a right side (front side) but if you had to join in extra yarn then choose the side which doesn’t have the yarn tails sticking out. Place right sides (font sides) together and the wrong side (inside) facing out.
Again *Optional* you can use the stitch markers or some safety pins to pin your sides together to make it easier for you.
Now thread your tapestry needle and sew the sides together. Start at the cast on edge and work towards the bind off edge. The bind off will be the crown or the top of your hat.
Now turn your work right side out so that the seam is on the inside of the tube.
Next, take a long thread or the rest of your sewing thread and weave in and out the ribs at the top / crown of your hat and then cinch it closed.
Anchor it by doing a backstitch or two and then start to sew the points of the rib at the top together matching opposite sides. This will help to flatten the top and make it look more closed. Once you are happy with the crown thread the needle through to the inside.
Now turn the hat inside out once more and sew in all of your ends. I just weave mine through the purl bumps but you can weave in your ends however you choose.
I have A video with 2 methods of weaving in ends here:
Feel free to sell anything you make using this pattern but please do not sell or redistribute this pattern or my photos. Credit for the pattern on the page you sell the items would also be greatly appreciated.
I hope that you enjoy this pattern and make some hats that you can treasure forever.
Peace and Love